Making Of

Making Of

WHAT MAKES A JEWELER?

A pair of hands, a bit of metallurgy, a bit of mechanics, a bit of engineering, a bit of design, a bit of invention, a bit of sculpture, a bit of dreaming makes undoubtedly a skilled jeweler, an inspired glyptographer and a restless artist.

IN THE WORKSHOP

Tools- Equipment 

An accomplished jeweler needs the necessary technical equipment:

• Furnace, refractory funnel and foundry for melting 
• pure metal and making silver 925 and 22K, 18K and 14K gold alloys. - Torch for soldering metal.
• Cylinder for the thinning of plates and wires, and for creating motifs on the surface.
• Pliers of various types for holding and bending.
• Steel forming tools (bezel block, dapping block, doming punches) for giving volume, curved forms or making relief.
• Jewelry saw for cutting and creating perforated motifs.
• Drills for perforating, milling machines and grinding wheels for sharpening metal or other tools like chisel hammer for texture mapping.
• Jewelry sanding files and emery stick, polishing buffs, gauge for measuring the thickness and distance measurement compass.

TECHNIQUES USED IN THE JEWEL ART GALLERY WORKSHOP

Fusing metal technique, reticulation technique with controlled incandescence, micro-sculpture on wax or metal, gem engraving, lacework on metal by sawing, silver coloring technique using controlled or complete oxidation method, forging, painting on pebbles or other materials, leather and textile processing.

More specifically for the creations Orbits, Terra Nova, Electronics of the CONTACT-FRAGMETS section – a collection- “ode” to technology - special printing/impression techniques were implemented. Parts of electronic devices – digital cameras, TVs, electronic circuits, music players – are used as models or positives, where by means of an elastic material, infusion of liquid silicone and casting methods, they make negative prints on the metal. Then follow the processing of the metal, the insertion of metallic elements and the adding of extensions. Finally, it is examined where, how and which precious/semi-precious stones will be mounted, to stress the active parts of the machine.

The TEXTURES collection on the other hand hosts creations made by various techniques. The GLYPTO section deals with techniques of engraved representation on the surface of semi-precious stones using diamond tools. Then the negative is imprinted on the metal with the aid of artistic plaster, casting wax and casting procedures. Section 4, ELEMENTS OF NATURE, is composed by four remarkable unique creations originally carved on wax. Then they were elaborated in silver and decorated with black engraved abalone shells.

GLYPTOGRAPHY

A few words about the art of Glyptography

Properties of each individual gem such as surface gloss, hardness degree, inclusions and color banding, as well as optical effects like sheen, pleochroism, reflection and refraction of light, are some of the factors that have to be studied carefully and taken under serious consideration, before carrying out the carving procedure. In this way, on one hand the stone integrity can be protected, and on the other, the subject-glyptography will be reflected correctly with grace and vividness, with pliancy in movement and harmony.

A glyptographer always seeks to exploit those natural gifts of the rough material used, which can set off the theme , with the ulterior purpose of adding his or her personal stigma and giving a unique expression to the glyptographic piece of work. Just like a composer orchestrating not by chance, but based entirely on those particular musical instruments which can give ‘’flesh and blood’’ to his or her vivid melody.

INSPIRATION

The creative process for each piece of jewelry can be very complicated but also interesting and inspired!

Inspiration and creation. Two elements which have always accompanied Tereza Damianidou- the soul of Jewel Art Gallery- sometimes discreetly and other times intensely and dynamically. An accidental sequence of events, which you later realize that has carried you away … (engravings etc.)

Facts and factors which give inspiration to the Jewel Art Gallery:

• The splendor of nature, and a feeling of awe towards the natural forces that are continuously carving the environment and the sculptural forms created by this kind of process.
• The sweet aroma of nature: Colors, sounds, smells, energies, actions and reactions vibrating all around and inside us to affirm our existence.
• Antithesis like synthesis and analysis of matter, tension and relaxation, stagnation and rotation, exaggeration and simplicity.
• Technology and contemporary architecture.
• The ancient Greek times with their rich samples of historical, mythological and artistic interest
• Emotions! Our soul's real emotions that cry out for love, affection, happiness, passion, a dream and a feeling of giving one wings; faith and determination to create, to be involved in art, to feel free and live on.

THANKS

Special thanks to:

• The teacher, partner, and above all, friend, Manos Panagiotou, who has been importing life in the art and art in the life of his students for ten creative years in a row.
• To Nick Kielty Labrinides, who not only was he a master of Glyptography, but above all he was a profoundly cultured and witty person; a man of vision.
• To partners and friends who believed in the vision of the Jewel Art Gallery.
• To my sweet family who was offering emotional and financial support behind the scenes with patience and stability.
• To my inspired stylist sister R.D. as well as my niece S.P., without the restless spirit of whom, we would still be in the middle of the way.
• To the photographers: Aggelos, Giorgos, Olga, Manolis, Leonidas.
• To the models: Androniki, Sofia, Maria, Marina, Lena, Christina, Elpida, Emanouella, Niki, Ramona and Matina.